One of the fantastic things about living in Japan, besides the ability to dine on whales and bluefin tuna guilt-free (joking), is the inexpensive flights and tour packages to attractive Asian destinations that, to us from the West, seem like honeymoon destinations an eternity away.

I recently took a short weekend trip to Hanoi in Vietnam–a mere five and a half hours away–and visited both the city and Ha Long Bay. Aside from a place like Singapore, four days is hardly enough to see one destination much less two, but Hanoi is small enough to be relatively manageable and Ha Long Bay’s tourist scene is built for cruising–literally.

Armed with an outdated Lonely Planet city guide, we traversed Hanoi’s chaotic streets in search of adventure and found it to be a place full of friendly people who drive in that classic maniacal Asian style, a place with no McDonald’s (thanks be to Communism?) and a place where hawkers and touts actually take “no” for an answer. The place is dirt cheap, too, and rumors of Vietnam’s watery lager “Bia Hoi” being a mere 20 cents a glass are true, even in tourist central.

Hanoi cannot be recommended for those looking for a lively Southeast Asian evening experience, though. No guides anywhere seem to accurately describe how difficult it is to find quality night life in the city upon first glance, as the majority of drinking establishments close down before midnight to avoid the wrath of the “fun police.” Information online is generally quickly outdated as establishments that do defy curfew constantly change their names and locations to avoid reputation. Those that have been successful enough to garner attention often spawn copycats, so even if visitors catch wind of a popular late-night joint, it’s best to ask around to find the location of the real place.

Rumor has it that Ly Club, The Spotted Cow and some relatively sleazy disco called Apocalypse Now are good for nights out, but unfortunately we didn’t make it to any of them. A friend mentioned some lively areas along the river at the east side of town, but while heading in that direction through the Old Quarter we got sidetracked at a place called “Half Man Half Noodle” (formerly known as “Drink Here Or We Kill The Puppy” or something like that). A bit low-key, but we enjoyed decent food and 25,000 dong drinks until around 3am despite an untimely appearance by cops looking for a handout.

Three hours away by bus, Ha Long Bay is a World Heritage Site that, along with the Sapa mountain trek, is one of Hanoi’s two must-do out of town excursions. Getting there is easy but having a good trip is like walking through a minefield, and numerous sources in both print and online warn of cheaply priced tours that range from an exercise in patience to a night of horror on the high seas.

After doing some research we chose to go with Ocean Tours, a great company with responsible tour guides that led us on a mini adventure in three separate boats and a kayak. Although sleeping on a junk is part of the Ha Long experience, staying on the company’s private island at the very south of Cat Ba was a Gillian’s Island-esque touch that definitely made the trip worth the price.

The weather wasn’t perfect–partially because of the season and partially because of, I’d imagine, the pollution–and the famous islands of the may remained shrouded in mist for most of the time. Even so it was picturesque, or would have been if not for the long trails of garbage and other pollution that dotted areas of still water and drifted along with the currents.

Some recommendations from a very short trip:

It’s in almost every guidebook, but don’t miss the Ho Chi Minh Museum, a truly trippy experience. Full of exhibits documenting the life of the famous Vietnamese revolutionary and expressions of Communist pride through abstract artwork and multimedia exhibits, this is a cross between a history and art museum that is certainly worth the paltry entry fee.

They may be grimy, but street-side diners are the way to go for the cheapest and tastiest food in the city. Venture out of the Old Quarter for less inflated prices and more people who have absolutely no idea how to speak English. Brush up on your basic food words in Vietnamese (chicken, beef, pork, noodles, soup, etc.) and use the menu, or just point.

Skip the famous corners featured in Rough Guide and Lonely Planet for “guzzling glasses of bia hoi and watching people rush by on scooters” and head for more suburban areas. In the Old Quarter there were times when almost everyone occupying a knee-high stool was a tourist–not a native in sight. How is that for an authentic Hanoi experience?

Doner kebabs seem to have become a worldwide phenomenon, but in Hanoi they often sandwich veggies and chicken into a Vietnamese baguette and then toast it. Fantastic!

Although we didn’t do it, skip the mountain biking and junk ride back to the port and spend a morning on Cat Ba before heading back on the hydrofoil. Taking a four hour boat ride through choppy waters once is more than enough, and Cat Ba really looks like it could use the tourist dollars more than a tour operator.

And one more related to food: Try the cake. Culturally Vietnam boasts a strong French influence, and this trickles right down into their desserts. Bakeries offer up sweets that would cost over five times as much from a patisserie in Tokyo. Skip the chocolate souvenirs, though. That’s one area they still need to work on.